Albergue or Bust

One of my many worries about traveling on the Camino was the albergues.

John and I have travelled on the cheap in India. We ran into a few places that were pretty rough, like Kukie’s Holiday Inn. (Don't let the name fool you!)
But most of the time we could find a hotel room that was pretty good for a cheap price.

The albergue is a very different kind of accommodation. You sleep in bunks with lots of other pilgrims. There are sometimes blankets and pillows...and sometimes not.

My fears were about privacy, safety and sleep. Trying to sleep in a room filled with snoring and farting..and most recently, a Spaniard singing rock music loudly while on his headphones, presents challenges.

But the experience of the Camino Albergue is one that has deeply enriched this journey for me.

For instance, there is the rich memory of eating bean soup and roasted lamb in Orisson, while folks from all parts of the world shared their reasons for walking the Camino. Although, John got the most applause when he shared, “My name is John. I'm from the United States and I’m walking the Camino to get away from my President.” And waking up in the middle of the night next to Raoul and Guadalupe to see a night sky brilliant with stars. Yes, the same Guadalupe that helped me find my shoe later down the road.

Then there was the stay at Villamayor de Monjardin. We slept in an ancient stone building with amazing views and sat out on the roof chatting with other pilgrims about God and love and cancer and, my favorite, “the German stereotype”.

My most recent favorite was when we strolled into Ciruena, which the guidebook accurately describes as having “soulless new suburbs”. We knew we were staying there because we weren't ready to walk the additional 7 kilometers to the next town. When we came,upon “The Virgen Guadalupe” I thought about Kukie's Holiday Inn and my heart began to sink. We were greeted by an eccentric old man that raced around showing us where to “poo poo” and “pee pee”. (His words). The bunk beds were covered in rubber along with the pillows. Thankfully, I was too shy to express my dismay, because it was an awesome experience filled with rich, animated conversations, delicious homemade food like chorizo and vegetable stew and a homemade fig preserve that made me swoon and beautiful artwork all made by our eccentric host.

Another great experience happened last night when we stayed in another small town called Viloria de la Rioja. This albergue, Parada Viloria, was owned by Tony and Maria, a clearly in love hippy couple that hosted us and 4 Italian Veterinarians that all went to University together 25 years ago. The vets walk the Camino together every year for a week and spent most of the pilgrim dinner warmly teasing Andre about how much weight he has gained. And there was also a delightful Italian bicyclist whose little dog, Milly, was biking the Camino with him, via backpack. (I still regret not getting a photo of them).

I sat and chatted with Maria with the enormous help of Google translate, while Tony listened to Eric Clapton and made Paella. I got to be his estudiante. The paella was amazing and they only asked for a donation for it.

When we were in Logrono, we decided to splurge and get a hotel with a sauna, a Jacuzzi and our very own bed with sheets and blankets and everything. We even opted to go out for dinner instead of having the Pilgrims communal dinner. But the next day I woke up just a little dead inside. I think the albergue is worth the snores, the singing Spaniard and maybe...the farts.